Surfing...
Is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer,
rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually
carrying the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are
primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers
in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore. However, surfers can also
utilize artificial waves such as those from boat wakes and the waves
created in artificial wave pools.
The term surfing refers to the act of riding a wave, regardless of
whether the wave is ridden with a board or without a board, and
regardless of the stance used. The native peoples of the Pacific, for
instance, surfed waves on alaia, paipo, and other such craft, and did so
on their belly and knees. The modern-day definition of surfing,
however, most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing up on a
surfboard; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing.
Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding, when a surfer
rides a wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee, or
sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing
include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats), and using
foils. Body surfing, where the wave is surfed without a board, using the
surfer's own body to catch and ride the wave, is very common and is
considered by some to be the purest form of surfing.
Three major subdivisions within standing-up surfing are long
boarding and short boarding and these two have several major
differences, including the board design and length, the riding style, and
the kind of wave that is ridden.